Recent Eats II

Tooker Alley
I love Tooker Alley. Perfect cocktails, cozy atmosphere, breezy backyard, convenient location... This is the place that finally convinced my father that Brooklyn wasn't such a backwater after all.

Hot Bird
If Tooker is my cocktail bar, Hot Bird is my beer bar. Like Tooker, there's great seating both inside and out-, though Hot Bird ups the ante by offering a firepit in winter. I went with a few friends last week and, ignoring the taco stand in the yard, we ordered in from Nacho Macho Taco, then capped things off with a few fork-toasted s'mores.

White Tiger
Trying to get into Chuko? Long line and you're not sure it's worth it? Frankly, you're probably right. I am uninspired by Chuko's noodles. Luckily there's this new Korean place just up the block that serves similar soups, in addition to bibimbap and all that. I was quite satisfied with my ramyun.

Jin Ramen
Currently my favourite traditional ramen place (not to be confused with my favourite un-traditional ramen place, Bassanova -- get the green curry). I couldn't stop myself, several times during the meal, from commenting on how fucking good it was.

Bar Corvo
I used to rate Bar Corvo fairly high. This was maybe the fourth or fifth time I've been, and I'm not sure if we got an off night or if they're slipping. I had the lasagna, which I've had before, but it seemed underseasoned. Still a nice atmosphere and all that, and it certainly wasn't bad, but I'd gotten used to having this fantastic Italian bistro in my back pocket, and now maybe I don't anymore.

Butter & Scotch
Trekked up here with some friends after building up an appetite ice skating in the park. The more traditional cocktails weren't up to nearby Tooker Alley standards, though the existence of hot and milkshaked options makes up for it. The s'mores pie is definitely as good as it should be.

Luigi's Pizza
I don't know if I don't like grandma pie, despite continually thinking that I will, or if theirs isn't great. That said, their regular slices are great. I've eaten a lot of pizza in Park Slope, and this place is the hands-down the best for your standard New York Slice.

Russ & Daughters Cafe
This was our annual mother-daughter birthday (mine) lunch. I had the break-fast martini, and we shared plates of herring, sable, and latkes, all excellent. There's always a wait, I gather, but my mom put our names down and we wandered the neighborhood until they texted us. Painless, and certainly worth it.

Saiguette
Desperate lunch times on 135 St and Malcolm X Blvd lead to desperate measures. Yes, I am willing to walk this far if it gets me a decent sandwich. And I did. And it was.

Dizzy's
As much as I can, I try to give R the full American experience. Essential to that is: the diner. Growing up in suburbia, going to the diner is what we did. Driving anywhere, diners are where I'll head. No place does perfect rye toast with melting butter and sunny-side-up eggs like a diner. Find me a diner that serves real (not from a can) corned beef hash with that, and I will never leave. (My other go-to order is a tuna melt on rye with a chocolate egg cream.) In Brooklyn, our diner options are limited; it's pretty much Tom's or Dizzy's. I took R to Tom's on his first visit to NY, for the atmosphere. Unfortunately the pancakes & etc didn't live up to the hype, so thence forth I take all my diner needs to Dizzy's. It's still got the greasy spoon thing going on, but with quality food to back it up. Also our waiter was extremely informed about James Bond, and would have stood their talking to us about the finer points all afternoon, if we hadn't had to leave to actually get to our showtime.

MAP

RECIPE: Eggplant Dirty Rice, an easy, flavourful weeknight meal.

Brooklyn Botanic Garden

99 times out of 100, when I leave the house I head either north or west. If west, I cut straight across Prospect Park. If north, I face the embarrassment of riches of choosing to go up the east side of the park, or straight up through the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

(Question: Why is it the New York Botanical and the Brooklyn Botanic? I never remember which is which, or why.)

I don't like going to cultural institutions once, for hours at a time. I prefer going to them briefly, multiple times. That way, they become mine. Both the park and garden I regard as my own back yard.

The garden is open year round, with free entry every Saturday from 10-12. And while there may be more flowers in the summer, I enjoy it just as much in the winter, when there's a good chance I'll have it entirely to myself.

That said... Every year at the end of April, they host the Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom Festival). It's two days of food, arts, flowers, and huge crowds, a number of whom are done up in their anime cosplay best. I always swing by, but that's because I'm a member so I don't have to pay the extra entry fee or wait in line. If you just want to get a sense of the action, it might be enough to stroll by and see a few costumes on their way in. And the blossoms themselves are there other days, and more often than not aren't necessarily even peaking during the festival itself. The trees in different areas tend to go off at different times; the BBG site provides a map so you can see which ones are at which stage of openness.

And then there's the rose garden, which just seems to go on and on all summer. Fountains of roses. You have no idea how many close-up rose photos I've taken over the years. It's addictive. I can't go to the rose garden with anyone else because I will drive them nuts with stopping every two feet.

Usually, it's so nice strolling the grounds I don't even bother with the greenhouses. And anyway I am basically just trying to get from Point A to Point B. In the middle of winter though, a little detour into the desert (and tropical/warm temperate/aquatic conservatories) can be very pleasant.

MAP

RECIPE: Wild Rice with Fennel & Porcini, a tasty side I've busted out on more than one Thanksgiving.

City Bakery

In this life, there are a few perfect combinations. Me & R. Blueberries & Corn Chex. Avocados & salt. Chocolate & peanut butter. Chocolate & pretzels. Chocolate &... a lot of things, actually; specifically, for our purposes today: City Bakery's hot chocolate and pretzel croissant.

Now, I'm a big fan of pretzels generally. Everyone has their defining snack food, and pretzels are mine. I also believe that there is something sacred about a really, really good croissant. So combine those two things in all their buttery, flaky, salty glory, and pair the result with the thickest, richest, most chocolatiest hot chocolate in the world, and it's pretty hard to beat.

I should note that City Bakery also has a very decent savoury food buffet, not to mention some excellent cookies and other pastries. Or so I'm told. The pretzel croissant-hot chocolate combo has always inoculated me against all other temptations. If you're in the neighborhood (of City Bakery or any of its Birdbath offshoots), it's hard to go wrong.

I should further note that this is one of the only things -- actually the only food thing I can think of -- where R and I differ. He claims their hot chocolate is too thick and sweet. I counter that he is insane, and it is everything anyone could ever want from hot chocolate. If you're looking for cocoa, open a packet of Swiss Miss.

February is the perfect time to visit because it's the Hot Chocolate Festival. Every day, in addition to the standard, they offer another, different flavor. Some are more tempting than others. I'd recommend going with a friend, and getting one of each so you don't feel you're missing out.

City Bakery gets crowded, but if one person waits in line and the other scouts around upstairs, there's usually enough turnover to find a seat by the time your hot chocolate arrives. Oh, and do say yes to the marshmallow.

MAP

RECIPE: Cacio e Pepe, because it sounds basic, but this is one of those times when the ingredients add up to way more than the sum of their parts.

Red Hooking

I love my neighborhood. I love all of Brooklyn, really, although I don't put it into practice much out in Canarsie or whatever. But there's only one neighborhood I go to for no other reason than to sit, and be, and soak it all in: Red Hook.

Red Hook is the Land Time Forgot. Even as distilleries and raw chocolate artisans and cocktail bars continue to pop up, and even with the presence of Ikea and Fairway, the extremely limited public transportation keeps it just a little slower, a little more relaxed. It's like a tiny corner of New Orleans in NY. (Insofar as that's possible, which isn't very, but still. As close as we get.)

Half the time, all I do is ride to the end of Valentino Pier, or the one behind Fairway, and stare at the water. For cheap, very local thrills, you could do a lot worse. The waves lap, boats go by, the Statue of Liberty stands.

...That said, there's plenty to actually do, so long as you have an interest in food, drink, entertainment, or art.

Food

Every weekend, Spring, Summer, and Fall, the vendors park around the southeast corner of the Bay St/Clinton St intersection. There are tamales, pupusas, cemitas, tacos, fresh juices... All of the trucks are good; none are expensive. My personal favorite -- and one of the few things I actively, specifically crave, is the barbacoa de chivo cemita from the white truck furthest south on Clinton St. They do taco versions too, and a few other things, but something about this cemita is just so perfectly balanced. I can't resist. Though I will often accompany it with a watermelon juice from the truck furthest west on Bay, and then pick up some tamales from the somewhat shabbier truck furthest east. (They freeze and steam up very well.)

Hometown BBQ also deserves a mention, but be warned: The line can be long, and by the time you get to the front there may be very little meat left. This is especially worrisome because the beef rib is so good, and you don't want to have to settle for the smoked turkey -- which I guess is fine and all, as smoked turkey goes, but I just don't get very excited about cold cuts. If you've planned poorly though, you can always comfort yourself with the bloody mary, which comes garnished with crispy, carmelized bacon. As for the rest: sides are as expected, which is to say: good to have on the side, but uninspiring. The usual bbq story. Only Fette Sau's beans are worth it all by themselves.

The Good Fork. Full disclosure: I haven't been here in several years, but last I checked it was a very fine, intimate restaurant, worthy of a special date night.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies: What is says. None of that meringue nonsense. Though I'd recommend skipping the regular ol' pie and going for a swingle. This is a chocolate-dipped, frozen pie, and it comes in three flavors, all of which balance each other well if you have enough people to share.

Thai. I've talked about the Thai places before. Either way, quality food that's not just pad thai with damp, tough chicken strips.

The Red Hook Lobster Pound. I'll admit, after eating lobster rolls in Connecticut and Maine, it's hard to get it up for rolls in NY; they're twice the price, with half the lobster. So usually what I do is buy the meat from RHLP, bring it over to my friend L's, and then we make our own damn lobster rolls. It's still not the cheapest meal in town, but it makes the experience cost-effective enough for our purposes. Which isn't to say that RHLP doesn't make good lobster rolls. I've also heard excellent things about their lobster mac n' cheese.

Baked! For all your coffeeshop, very-Brooklyny baked goods. (Think chocolate, salted caramel, pretzels, peanut butter.)

Drink

Fort Defiance serves the best Irish coffee I've ever had. Actually, until I had it here, I didn't really understand that Irish coffee could even be a thing. It's just coffee with some whiskey, right? If you, also, don't understand, then please go to Fort Defiance and drink until you do. They also have a Thursday tiki night.

If FD didn't cure your cocktail craving, or you're making a day of it, or you prefer airy to cosy, head to Botanica.

And then when you're tired of cocktails and it's hot and you just want to sit in someone's back yard and drink $2 Miller High Lifes (with lemon) and eat 2/$5 pulled pork sandwiches with sweet potato fries and chipotle mayo... Ice House was the first bar I ever went to in Red Hook, and I've been back innumerable times since. It's the definition of a lazy summer afternoon.

Brooklyn Crab. I'm putting this under drink, rather than food, because the food is crap. However. If you want a deck to watch the sun set over the water (and the Fairway parking lot), washed down with a few Narragansetts, it will serve. And the oysters are probably fine?

Whiskey & Chocolate

Widow Jane & Cacao Prieto: Whiskey, rye, bourbon, rum, liqueur, and chocolate. With some fancy chickens running around the courtyard.
Van Brunt Stillhouse: Whiskey, rum, grappa, and moonshine.
Raaka: Chocolate.

All offer tours and tastings. It is an extremely pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

Art
There's nothing better than taking in a bit of art when you're more than one sheet to the wind. Pioneer Works screens movies, hangs art on its walls, and puts on performance pieces. As with any contemporary gallery, this is all very hit and miss, but even the biggest miss can be very entertaining after a few whiskey tastings.

The Robotic Church is only open every once in a while. Sign up with Atlas Obscura, and they should keep you in the loop (with plenty of other things too). It's an odd, slightly scary performance, which they cap off with a tour of the space. An ideal event for weeding out potentially questionable dates.

Red Hook also has a variety of galleries and other art spaces. Stroll the length of Van Brunt (or at least from the Lobster Pound all the way down the pier) and you'll hit a good number.

Et cetera
Hope & Anchor does karaoke every Friday and Saturday, starting at 9. It's my second-favorite karaoke in the city (after Baby Grand). Unless it's taken over by one of those all-girl birthday parties where they never sing in groups smaller than five, usually to Katy Perry or whatever, it's a great scene. (I'm not saying you can't eat here, but why would you? I mean I have, several times, but only the breakfast items are not disappointing.)

During the summer, there's a film series at Valentino Park. Bring a blanket and bug spray, stock up on snacks at Fairway, and settle in. It's the Land Time Forgot, remember, so it never gets nearly as crowded as the other outdoor movies.

Rocky Sullivan's has a quiz night every Thursday at 8.

The pool is open every summer. Free.

MAP

RECIPE: Coconut Layer Cake, even though I've only ever made the cake part, not the frosting. It's my standard white cake recipe, because it doesn't taste strongly coconutty, just nicely sweet and moist.